Well I was moving right along enjoying to the max the knitting and here we are. I finished chart M3 and my sweater measures ~22.5 inches. According to the instructions, it should be 21.65 when I am next to done with the next chart M4. I know I am off but I like it like it is , longer. I just need your help to figure out what I need to do now. I know that the sleeves will have to be wider I guess to fit the steeks, but I deal with that when I get there.
I am planning on knitting chart M4 complete because I want to see those roses like they are. I need to figure out when to start casting off for the front neck. In the pattern it says knit M4 and when pieces reaches 21.65, cast off 34 + 5 steeks ( I am doing the middle size). Since I am past that length and I have not even started chart M4, how many rows in general of chart M4 do you knit when you had to cast off so I can use that as a guide? Or what should I do, I do not want to rip, it is not that I do not want to do it, I like it like it is now and desperately want to find a way to do it.
Assuming that you and me can figure out the above question, now the second. Somebody I think Annie, after casting off the necessary stitches, added back the steeks stitches to keep knitting in the round, but if you do that, how do you then keep casting off 2 stitches every other row to shape the neck.
I am getting all confuse here, so I am stopping until I hear from you or I can understand this, I keep reading and reading the instructions and nothing clicks.
Thanks and looking forward to your input
Aurita
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6 comments:
Aurita,
I'll see if I understand your questions.
1. You have completed the charts M2 and M3, correct? Now you are ready to start M4 and the neck, correct? Don't forget the one row of gray before M4. If this is the case, you 'could' rip back a few rows only, so that your sleeves would fit better. That is what I would do. (Your sleeves will not fit and you will either have to make them skinnier, or have puckering armholes.) Then start your neck bindoff. If you don't really wish to rip back the inch, then start your bindoff now. The shoulders get bound off at the end of M4. (Or you could do a three needle bindoff.)
2. Your second refers to the steeks for the neckline so you can continue knitting in the round. Always knit the steek stitches, but decrease in the rose border in the two stitches before the ONE STITCH next to the steeks. In otherwords, keep the one stitch of the sweater body plain, along the steeks, and decrease next to it, so you always have an unbroken stitch to pick up the collar neatly. Your decreases are less visible that way.
This was hard to explain. Holler if you don't understand.
Anyone else with some advice for Aurita, or can it be explained in simpler terms?
Good luck.
Cindy
Sorry, but in my reply about the sleeves not fitting, I meant to say that the sleeves will have to be WIDER to make them fit if you do not rip back an inch.
Cindy
Thanks for the reply, you understood my problem.
What I have decided to do is to leave it exactly like it is now, don't do anything else and start working on the sleeves, maybe make them just a tad wider and see if by the time that I am done with the sleeves, what the width is and how much, if any I will have to rip of the sweater.
In general, I start knitting tight and then it gets relax by the end, at one point I was completely on gauge both in width and rows but some where along the line, specially since I started M3 things get out of whack, and I it got looser.
Does that make sense to you Cindy?
Oh and by the way, unless I am mistaken, I think there is an error in the color chart of M3, can't remember exactly now, but check the very last 3 or 4 rows against the original chart or my chart. The error is in the color version.
Aurita
Hi Aurita,
My tension also changes a lot during the process, but I normally get tighter as the project progresses!! Too bad we can't just average out both of our gauges!!
I had to omit quite a few rows, because my row gauge changed during M3, so I didn't actually knit the last rows. But if you are referring to the gold in the center of the little motifs, I believe that is correct. Look at the original chart again to see the gold. Of course, you may modify any of the charts to your liking, right? I sure did.
Looking forward to seeing some of your photos too.
Cindy
Cindy
Yes, I should do the first part of the project and you do the second, too bad it odes not work that way.
I may take some pictures tonight of where I am and see if I start working the sleeves
Aurita
Cindy
The mistake is not in the yellow line, is after that, the white and gray lines are reversed, it looks nicer the right way. I just said that in case somebody did get gauge and can do the whole chart as stipulated
Aurita
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